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My Journey to Machu Picchu 2025

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It’s been a dream kinda trip, maybe not at the top of my bucket list, but somewhere in there. Maybe somewhere in the top ten places I need to go to before I die. And no getting around it, I’m super glad I made the journey. My friend who made the journey with me, admitted that it was very high up on his bucket list. He’d been fantasizing about it for decades, and when I casually asked him if he might want to go to Peru last fall, I believe he answered before I even really finished the question or the thought.

His words of wisdom to you all, after ascending to the top of Machu Picchu and making it back onto the bus, is “GO! and DO NOT WAIT!” It’s not exactly difficult, but it also isn’t the easiest of journeys to be had. It may take more preparation than I took, which surprised me. And I also got a few fundamental things wrong that I wish I had known, or that someone had informed me of before departing for the country in general, and before I started the journey to Machu Picchu.

Here are a few pieces of advice about a Machu Picchu trip that, I hope will help make it all the more memorable. And trust me when I tell you that this trip is and has been truly memorable, unforgettable, and utterly magical. Even with the slight headache it might give you.

To start us off, we went and spent about a week in Lima, specifically in the neighborhood of Barranco, which I must say was entirely worth it. It’s bohemian, creative, and historical, overflowing with beautifully renovated old buildings converted into glamourous art-filled hotels, like the bold, vibrant Hotel B, that offer up a delicious Pisco Sour while taking in the glorious sunset on their rooftop bar. Or a more classically sedate and elegant cocktail at their lovely and unique lobby bar, which reminded me of a very boutique hotel bar experience in numerous locals around the world.

Barranco

In Barranco, there are gorgeous restaurants scattered throughout the very walkable neighborhood, like the elegant Merito or the very over-the-top (and super pricey) Central, which offers a 13-course tasting menu that will drain your bank account but excite all your senses, and a few others that you didn’t even know existed. But be prepared for the time frame and the price point. (We were not.)

We hung out in great cool bars, like Cordial, ate amazing foods, visited cool galleries, like the Wu Gallery (only open Mon-Fri), and shopped in spectacularly well-curated craft stores, like Dédalo Arte, while never breaking the bank or overwhelming our curiosity. We crossed the bridge of love and walked down to the beach along the gallery-lined pathway that was not as exhausting as we thought it might be. The Airbnb we had was cute and smaller than expected, but it suited the experience and was a perfect place to return to after wandering the neighborhood all day long.

After that very satisfying week of exploring (and me working remotely from my bedroom), we left for a short flight from Lima Airport to Cusco on LATAM Airline. We upgraded ourselves, mainly because of the baggage requirements, but also the cost of upgrading was quite low, and it really was worth the few extra PENs. We arrived into Cisco, the traditional starting point for a Machu Picchu visit, and taxied off to the hotel in the historic center of town. One thing to note: taking Ubers at Lima Airport and Cusco Airport is not recommended, unless you have already purchased and installed the SIM card for connection. The Ubers aren’t allowed to pick up in the typical lanes where you would expect them. They have to wait a bit further out and to try to find them without cellular service is extremely difficult. It’s difficult even with cellular service, as our Uber at the Lima Airport was parked inside the wide and very full parking lot, and we were just lucky to have stumbled upon it. A much better plan is to either get a SIM card or arrange a taxi at one of the booths inside the airport before leaving the baggage claim area. Or both. And have them wisk you past all those drivers trying to get you to go with them. They are quite persistent.

Our Cusco hotel, the Hotel Hacienda Cusco Centol Historico, was a bit further out than we expected (I think I would have preferred the Hotel Hacienda Plaza De Armas, or the elegant Monastario Hotel if I could have afforded it), but it was only a 15-minute walk to the main squares where the charm and history of Cusco sits waiting for you. It’s all downhill going into town for dinner, but that walk back after a delicious meal was a bit harder than anticipated, especially with the high elevation that the town of Cusco sits at.

Plaza de Armas in Cusco.

The best advice I can give in regards to the whole adventure, beyond making sure you organize your timed entry into Machu Picchu months in advance, as the slots fill up, and there is no ‘just showing up’ at the gates and thinking you’ll get in, is centered around the town’s high elevations. The altitude sickness thing is real and intense. Machu Picchu is the equivalent in elevation, give or take, of Mexico City. Doable and manageable, I think. But Cusco, where the majority of anyone traveling to Machu Picchu will start their tour, is much higher by over 1000 meters, and where you’ll really feel the effects almost right away. We unfortunately envisioned it the other way around, to be honest, believing (falsely) that Machu Picchu was the higher one, and the place where our breathing would be most challenged. But we were so so wrong. So start taking the altitude medication a few days before arriving in Cusco. Not once you get to Cusco, cause that would be about 48hrs too late.

If you’re like me and thought Machu Picchu would be higher than Cusco, and didn’t take any meds before arriving in Cusco (I bought the herbal ‘equivalent’ in Cusco hoping that would help), then you might find yourself not sleeping well at all and showing up for your two-day tour of the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu feeling pretty terrible. It wasn’t exactly a headache that I had, just a pressure that never really subsided until I got out of Cusco and arrived at Aguas Calientes, which is the true jumping-off point to the majority of Machu Picchu adventures.

Another piece of advice that we discovered almost too late, beyond the herbal pills, is, and I can’t stress this enough, drink the leaf tea offered in the lobby at the hotel. It really helped. Almost instantly. I thought they were thermoses of coffee in the lobby, but no. Place the leaves into the cup and pour the hot water overtop, and drink! Often. As that tea really does wonders. We didn’t really experience it until we were given a cup by some pretty pushy saleswomen who make all those alpaca sweaters up in the Sacred Valley at the first stop of our two-day Machu Picchu tour. And although we got out without buying any of their weaved goods (that seemed more expensive than the shop we found in Cusco – Soncco Alpaca), the teas were the pure magic they gave us, and made us feel almost instantly better.

Sacred Valley.

The Fly Cusco tour we booked (last fall) was a surprisingly good experience as it took us through the valley, stopping at the alpaca weaving market, a salt mine (which was pretty cool), a shop made to sell us pink salt and chocolate (we bought a small bit of each), and a truly impressive archeology site called the Moray Inca Ruins. All before dropping us off at the train station that will take us to Aguas Calientes. Although we didn’t actually see the first-class car on the Peru Rail train, we were told by others that it really wasn’t worth the expense, and the ride itself is pretty comfortable as is. The views are spectacular (try to sit on the left side of the train facing forward for the best views of the raging river that train runs alongside) and we were well cared for but the excellent staff that are there to help.

We were met at the train station in Aguas Calientes by our Machu Picchu tour guide who took us to our pretty basic and basically fine hotel in the pretty chaotic and not-so-pretty tourist town of Aguas Calientes, and instructed to be ready to go the next morning at 640am. We got a good night’s sleep after a perfectly fine meal in a generic Peruvian tourist restaurant on the crowded street behind the hotel, ate a simple buffet breakfast at our hotel early in the morning, and were ready to go at the instructed time.

Peru Rail train.

Machu Picchu is everything that you could imagine and more. It really is breathtaking, and even with all the crowds of people lining up for the bus ride to the front gate, the site is so well handled that it never really felt that crowded once you got inside. Bring coins if you want to use the toilet at the gates (there are none inside), wear sensible (maybe waterproof) hiking/running shoes with good traction, and dress in layers. We visited Machu Picchu in the rainy season (North America’s winter months), and we were told to be ready for rain and misty clouds. But as luck would have it, we were greeted with warm air and sun, so that rain jacket, along with both my long-sleeved and short-sleeved athletic shirts, were happily tied around my waist as we made our way through that impressive Inca village.

I can’t begin to describe how fascinating and majestic this experience is. Do it. Before you can’t. Best advice of this whole blog. We didn’t book the extra ticket to climb the actual peaked mountain of Machu Picchu, which you can if you know about it in advance. Our guide, who was wonderful, told us it took about an hour and a half to climb the stairs that would take you to the top of that iconic peak where there happens to be a few Inca houses and terraces for growing crops, and an hour to come down. I’ll take her word for it. Not from that endorphin-fueled fit American woman who came out from the hike with an exuberant “It was an hour going up and a half-hour coming down, but it was soooo worth it!” She was PUMPED!

Machu Picchu.

After our incredible adventure and tour, which was astonishing and inspiring, I should have listened to my gut and told the guide that we didn’t need her to take us back to the hotel in town. That we could do it on our own. It turns out there’s a spectacular hotel right by the front gate to the Machu Picchu site, and I thought, as we were making our way out, that it might be fun and quite decadent to go inside that high-end hotel, The Belmond Sanctuary Lodge, for a post-tour cocktail. But in the frenzy of the crowded outside gate, I found myself sitting in the back row of a bumpy bus ride back to town before I could utter my idea out loud. I’m not even sure if the hotel would have permitted it, but I am still sorta kicking myself for missing out on that cocktail hour.

Bring a good warm raincoat if going in the rainy season, and a sweater. Or buy an alpaca one for the tour and for the town of Cusco, which can get pretty chilly at night. It was a 4-hour journey back starting with the afternoon train to Ollantaytambo where our tour driver picked us up and drove us back to our Cusco hotel. It felt like a long journey after a long (thrilling morning) and I must admit we both wondered if we made the right decision to: a) not stay an extra night in Aguas Calientes (although the town itself is not that intriguing, or b) stay an extra two more nights in Cusco. The altitude sickness sorta seemed ominous to us both as we made our way back to our hotel and our stored luggage, but either we were more acclimated by then, or the combination of the medication and tea were doing the trick. And in the end, we did end up having a really lovely few-more night’s stay, eating well and seeing a few more museums and sites. Feeling better and more adventurous than we thought we would feel. And we finally did some shopping.

MAP Cafe inside the Museo de Arte Precolombino.

We found this great store, Soncco Alpaca, just off the main square with this wonderful sweet saleswoman, Marisol (they are all pretty kind, but she was more than lovely and gave us quite a good deal, much better than all those other fancier stores offering 50% off of their overpriced sweaters). We bought souvenirs, sweaters, and a few gifts, all from that lovely shop, and even bought a few items that she would ship to us as we didn’t really have much room left in our carryon bag. Equally lovely, we visited a spectacularly well laid out (small) museum, Museo de Arte Precolombino in the midday, where we had the best fancy lunch at MAP Cafe. It was super delicious, served up lovingly by the wonderful waiter, Jhon. It is situated in the museum’s lovely courtyard and was completely charming and delightful, making it one of our better Cusco meals, and worth every penny.

There’s a few must-try dishes in Cusco: Alpaca (no cholesterol) and guinea pig (fatty), and even though neither of them blew our socks off, they were both worthy of a try.  We had them numerous times over our five nights in Cusco: one time in an Alpaca burger and the other time in a less-than-thrilling buffet lunch supplied by the tour company as we made our way through the Sacred Valley. My travel buddy thought guinea pig was tasty but mushy, a compliment that the waiter of one restaurant didn’t really appreciate, but overall the food and our tries were all pretty darn good and worth it.

The restaurant at the Museo Larco.

We flew back to Lima after our few days in Cusco after seeing Machu Picchu, which turned out to be a good thing. We should have flown (if it is possible) to Arequipa, a beautifully colonial city that sits in stark contrast to its untamed surrounds about 1000km southeast of Lima. I was told wonderful things about this city, but alas, I needed to get back to Lima, this time to the neighbourhood of Miraflores, and resume my online work schedule, while balancing my workouts at Lima’s SmartFit Benavides gym, and all the great restaurants, bars, cafes, churches, parks, beaches,and museums that seem to thrive all around us.

I dove back into work, having one of my more busier weeks than normal (very typical after taking a week off), but finding time to get out and visit cat-havened Parque Kennedy, lots of ceviche at both the incredible Cevicheria Punto Azul, and the more modest Cevicheria Barra Maretazo, served most adorably by our Venezuelan waiter. We went on a well-constructed half-day tour to the Plaza Mayor, Basilica de Santo Domingo, and an incredible visit to the Casa de Aliaga, a mansion museum that was built by Jeronimo de Aliago, one of Pizarro’s leutenants. It’s the oldest and best preserved colonial-era homes in the continent and still utilized by the same family 17 generations later.

Casa de Aliaga.

We ended that guided tour at the Museo Larco, which is a fascinating ceramics museum a bit further away from the historic center. It was truly awe-inspiring in the breadth of its strong collection, taking us through all the different civilizations that called this land their own before the Incas cast their spell over the area. But, I must admit, the best thing about the museum is its lovely garden restaurant, that after wandering around all these amazing places the tour company took us to that morning, we were happy to not jump in the van that awaited us, but sit ourselves down in this lovely (ladies-who-lunch) restaurant, order a tasty cocktail, and have a delicious, relaxing, long lunch that revitalized our tired tourist souls.

We also made time to visit the wonderful Museo de Arte de Lima in the Parque de la Exposición, tour the covento de San Francisco and its fascinating cattacombs, visit Lima’s Cathedral, and wander over to the Plaza San Martin. It was all good and stunningly beautiful, and I feel truly blessed by it all. I have a few more days of work to deal with, a few more chances for good food and some Pisco Sours (delightful and wickedly strong), before flying back to the cold north. I wish I was staying another week, so I could have another weekend in this gloriously fascinating city. But I will say, that in five years or so, this town will blossom in ways we are just beginning to see take root. It’s on the verge of being the excited tourist destination it dreams of being, like Mexico City. It’s just a few years away, so get into it before it passes you by.

Convention y Basilica de Santo Domingo

My love for theater started when I first got involved in high school plays and children's theatre in London, Ontario, which led me—much to my mother’s chagrin—to study set design, directing, and arts administration at York University in Toronto. But rather than pursuing theater as a career (I did produce and design a wee bit), I became a self-proclaimed theater junkie and life-long supporter. I am not a writer by trade, but I hope to share my views and feelings about this amazing experience we are so lucky to be able to see here in NYC, and in my many trips to London, Enlgand, Chicago, Toronto, Washington, and beyond. Living in London, England from 1985 to 1986, NYC since 1994, and on my numerous theatrical obsessive trips to England, I've seen as much theater as I can possibly afford. I love seeing plays. I love seeing musicals. If I had to choose between a song or a dance, I'd always pick the song. Dance—especially ballet—is pretty and all, but it doesn’t excite me as, say, Sondheim lyrics. But that being said, the dancing in West Side Story is incredible! As it seems you all love a good list, here's two. FAVORITE MUSICALS (in no particular order): Sweeney Todd with Patti Lupone and Michael Cerveris in 2005. By far, my most favorite theatrical experience to date. Sunday in the Park with George with Jenna Russell (who made me sob hysterically each and every one of the three times I saw that production in England and here in NYC) in 2008 Spring Awakening with Jonathan Groff and Lea Michele in 2007 Hedwig and the Angry Inch (both off-Boadway in 1998 and on Broadway in 2014, with Neal Patrick Harris, but also with Michael C. Hall and John Cameron Mitchell, my first Hedwig and my last...so far), Next To Normal with Alice Ripley (who I wish I had seen in Side Show) in 2009 FAVORITE PLAYS (that’s more difficult—there have been so many and they are all so different): Angels in American, both on Broadway and off Lettice and Lovage with Dame Maggie Smith and Margaret Tyzack in 1987 Who's Afraid of Virginai Woolf with Tracy Letts and Amy Morton in 2012 Almost everything by Alan Ayckbourn, but especially Woman in Mind with Julia McKenzie in 1986 And to round out the five, maybe Proof with Mary Louise Parker in 2000. But ask me on a different day, and I might give you a different list. These are only ten theatre moments that I will remember for years to come, until I don’t have a memory anymore. There are many more that I didn't or couldn't remember, and I hope a tremendous number more to come. Thanks for reading. And remember: read, like, share, retweet, enjoy. For more go to frontmezzjunkies.com

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Blackbarn’s Fall Feast: Where Culinary Artistry Meets New York Sophistication

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Chef John Doherty welcomes Executive Chef Israel Reyes as one of Manhattan’s most beautiful restaurants unveils a delicious new season.

There are restaurants you visit for the food, others for the atmosphere, and a select few that understand dining is an experience involving every sense. Blackbarn Restaurant, overlooking Madison Square Park at 19 East 26th Street, belongs firmly in that last category. In a city overflowing with dining options, it remains my personal favorite for its extraordinary combination of design, impeccable service and food that consistently makes me want to return.

This is not a restaurant that needs to shout for attention. It has something far more valuable: confidence, character and an understanding of hospitality that makes guests feel genuinely welcome.

That sensibility was on full display during Blackbarn ‘s fall preview, an evening that brought together some of the city’s leading food critics, culinary insiders and influencers to celebrate the changing season and welcome the restaurant’s new Executive Chef, Israel Reyes, who will work alongside Chef and Owner John Doherty.


For Doherty, whose culinary career has long been associated with exceptional standards and sophisticated American cooking, the arrival of Reyes marks an exciting new chapter. Together, they are introducing a fall menu that embraces the warmth, richness and abundance of the season without sacrificing the creativity that has made Blackbarn such a distinctive dining destination.

Executive Chef, Israel Reyes, T2cs Suzanna Bowling, Chef and Owner John Doherty and Prince Mario – Max

And what a delicious introduction it was.

The evening began with dishes that immediately demonstrated the kitchen’s ability to balance refinement with genuine pleasure. A Yellow Beet and Carrot Kale Salad brought together earthy vegetables, spicy pepitas, fried goat cheese croquettes and a creamy orange dressing. It was a celebration of contrasting textures and flavors, with just enough indulgence to make even the most devoted salad skeptic reconsider.

The Butternut Squash Risotto was autumn in a bowl, combining the natural sweetness of squash with bacon lardons, watercress, grapes and truffle. Rich and luxurious, it captured the comforting side of seasonal cooking while introducing unexpected notes of freshness.

Then came the Heritage Pork Belly Chicharrones, which deserve their own moment of appreciation. Quite simply, they were among the yummiest things of the evening. Pork belly is a dish that can easily become overly heavy, but when its richness is balanced by that irresistible crispness, the result is pure culinary pleasure. These were the kind of bites that make polite conversation temporarily irrelevant.

Blackbarn ‘s Confit Pear & Gorgonzola Pizza used spicy coppa, hazelnut, caramelized onion, arugula, truffle hot honey. Ingredients that speak to the kitchen’s willingness to take something recognizable and give it a sophisticated twist.

The Chicken Empanadas, served with mole and queso fresco, offered a satisfying interplay of savory richness and spice.

The Beef Bulgogi Skewers, accented with scallions and sesame crumbs, introduced a welcome Asian influence. Rather than restricting itself to a narrow definition of American cuisine, Blackbarn embraces the international flavors that make dining in New York so endlessly interesting.


Of course, no celebration of autumn would be complete without cocktails, and Blackbarn’s seasonal creations were every bit as memorable as the food. Sweater Weather, a gorgeous combination of apple bourbon, Blackbarn’s signature Eagle Rare bourbon, lemon, Grand Marnier and apple cider, was particularly enchanting. It tasted like a chilled glass of fresh apple cider, yet somehow warmed your entire soul as you drank it. Autumn in a glass, with a sophisticated little kick.

Then came Oaxacan Autumn, an intriguing blend of Rosaluna mezcal, Brugal rum, pumpkin spice and lemon. The surprise was its flavor, which reminded me immediately of Honees Honey Filled Drops, those wonderful old-fashioned candies with their unmistakable honey sweetness. There was something nostalgic, comforting and deliciously unexpected about it. Two completely different cocktails, both capturing the season beautifully, and both proving that Blackbarn’s creativity extends well beyond the kitchen.

Then there were the desserts.

A Peanut Caramel Sundae delivered the kind of unapologetic indulgence that makes dessert feel like a reward rather than an afterthought with tapioca for a surprise. The Pumpkin Cheesecake Ice Cream, with ginger snaps, chocolate bites and apple cider glaze, was another inspired nod to the season, bringing together the flavors of autumn in a playful, contemporary presentation.

Roasted Figs with shortcake cookie, whipped ricotta and aged balsamic offered a more delicate conclusion, balancing fruit, creaminess and acidity. For those who believe no memorable meal should end without a showstopper the pear and spiced cake with eggnog sauce and the chocolate caramel tart provided a suitably elegant finale.

What makes Blackbarn especially appealing, however, extends well beyond the plate.

The restaurant’s striking interiors marry rustic warmth with architectural sophistication, creating a space that feels both expansive and intimate. It has the kind of effortless elegance that so many restaurants attempt to manufacture but few achieve. The atmosphere is lively without becoming overwhelming, polished without being pretentious, and the service has that increasingly rare quality of anticipating what a guest needs without interrupting the experience.

It is this attention to detail that separates a good restaurant from a truly memorable one. Beautiful surroundings mean little if the food disappoints, and even extraordinary cuisine loses its appeal when hospitality becomes an afterthought. Blackbarn understands that the three must work together.


The fall preview also offered a glimpse of what lies ahead, with new food and cocktail offerings, seasonal programming for fall and winter, holiday celebrations and an upcoming merchandise collection. It is a thoughtful expansion of the Blackbarn experience, inviting guests to make the restaurant part of their celebrations throughout the year.

Chef and Owner John Doherty

With Executive Chef Israel Reyes joining John Doherty in the kitchen, the restaurant is entering the new season with renewed creative energy while remaining faithful to the qualities that have earned it such a loyal following.

Executive Chef, Israel Reyes, Chef and Owner John Doherty

For me, Blackbarn has always represented something special about New York dining. It is a place where beautiful design, exceptional hospitality and genuinely exciting food come together without competing for attention. Each enhances the other, creating an experience that feels complete.

In a city where restaurants open and close with dizzying frequency, that kind of consistency is something worth celebrating.

Blackbarn doesn’t simply serve dinner. It reminds you why going out to dinner in New York can still feel like an occasion.

Blackbarn Restaurant is located at 19 East 26th Street, overlooking Madison Square Park. For menus, reservations and upcoming seasonal programming, visit www.blackbarnrestaurant.com.

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The Algonquin Hotel Thinks Pink: A Toast to Hope, Broadway and Breast Cancer Awareness

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The legendary Midtown landmark brings cocktails, cabaret and a little Sondheim sophistication to a cause that touches millions.

There is something wonderfully New York about turning a cocktail into a cause, especially when the setting is The Algonquin Hotel, where literary legends once traded barbs over lunch and the city’s theatrical elite have long felt at home. This October, the historic Midtown institution is trading its familiar Blue Bar glow for a decidedly rosier hue, celebrating Breast Cancer Awareness Month with cocktails, cabaret, live entertainment and fundraising benefiting the American Cancer Society’s Making Strides Against Breast Cancer.

The centerpiece is a cocktail with a Broadway pedigree: Sunday in the Park, a playful nod to Stephen Sondheim’s Sunday in the Park with George. Like its theatrical inspiration, this is an exercise in color and composition, though the canvas is considerably smaller and considerably more delicious.

The cocktail reimagines the classic Cosmopolitan with E11EVEN Vodka, Combier liqueur d’orange, Re’al Lychee Syrup Purée and fresh lime juice, finished with ripe raspberries. Available throughout October at The Blue Bar Restaurant & Lounge, it offers guests an opportunity to raise a glass while raising funds, with a portion of each sale benefiting the American Cancer Society’s Making Strides Against Breast Cancer initiative.

Behind the pink lighting and beautifully garnished cocktails is a reality that deserves attention. According to the American Cancer Society’s 2026 estimates, approximately 321,910 American women will be diagnosed with invasive breast cancer this year, and 42,140 will die from the disease. About one in eight women will develop breast cancer during her lifetime, making it one of the most consequential health concerns facing women in the United States.

The numbers are sobering, but they also tell a story of remarkable medical progress. More than four million breast cancer survivors are living in America today, and when invasive breast cancer is diagnosed before it has spread beyond the breast, the five-year relative survival rate exceeds 99 percent. When the disease has spread to distant parts of the body, that figure falls to approximately 32 percent.

These statistics underscore the importance of timely screening, access to treatment and continued research. They also explain why Breast Cancer Awareness Month is about considerably more than wearing pink.

Throughout October, The Algonquin will host weekly happy hours from 5 to 8 p.m., featuring specially created pink cocktails and live entertainment. The musical lineup includes Rocco of The Snow, Broadway performers and cabaret evenings, giving the hotel’s fundraising efforts an appropriately theatrical flourish.

For a property whose history is inseparable from New York’s cultural life, the marriage of entertainment and philanthropy feels particularly fitting. The Algonquin’s legendary Round Table once attracted writers, critics and performers whose conversations helped define an era of American wit and sophistication. Nearly a century later, the hotel continues to understand the appeal of gathering people around a table, although this October the conversation carries an additional purpose.

The initiative also arrives during a fresh chapter for the landmark hotel. Following the completion of its renovation in June 2026, The Algonquin has introduced refreshed menus at The Blue Bar, bringing renewed energy to one of Midtown’s most recognizable gathering places while preserving the character that has made it a New York institution.

Making Strides Against Breast Cancer, the American Cancer Society’s nationwide fundraising movement, supports the fight against breast cancer through research, advocacy and services for people affected by the disease. The Algonquin’s month-long programming offers New Yorkers and visitors an inviting way to participate, whether by enjoying a cocktail, attending a performance or simply joining a conversation that could encourage someone to take their health more seriously.

There is, of course, an important distinction between awareness and action. Pink ribbons and illuminated buildings may draw attention, but access to screening, early diagnosis, effective treatment and compassionate support are what change lives. A diagnosis does not arrive with a convenient calendar date, and the need for help does not disappear when October ends.

Still, there is something to be said for an evening that combines pleasure with purpose. At The Algonquin, a cocktail can be an occasion for generosity, a cabaret performance can bring people together, and a familiar Midtown landmark can remind us that the most meaningful traditions are those that continue to serve the present.

Sondheim understood that art could reveal the extraordinary within the ordinary. This October, The Algonquin is offering its own interpretation: a little pink, a little music and a toast to the lives worth fighting for.

For more information, visit The Algonquin Hotel or learn about the American Cancer Society’s Making Strides Against Breast Cancer.

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Food and Drink

PopUp Bagels Takes a Bite Out of Times Square With Katz’s, Cheesecake and a Little New York Chutzpah

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The cult-favorite bagel sensation is bringing its Grip, Rip and Dip philosophy to the Crossroads of the World, complete with exclusive flavors and a Broadway-worthy opening celebration.

New Yorkers have very strong opinions about their bagels. We debate the crust, the chew, the schmear, and whether a proper bagel should ever be toasted. We have elevated the humble combination of flour, water and yeast into something approaching a civic religion. So when a company comes along and suggests that perhaps we’ve been eating our bagels all wrong, it had better have something extraordinary to offer.

Enter PopUp Bagels, the cult-favorite brand that made a name for itself by stripping the traditional New York bagel experience down to its most delicious essentials. Following its successful Greenwich Village debut, the company is bringing its unconventional approach to Times Square, with a grand opening scheduled for Friday, October 16, at 7 a.m.

Forget the towering breakfast sandwiches, elaborate toppings and architectural feats of balancing smoked salmon, tomatoes and onions between two halves of bread. PopUp Bagels has a different philosophy: serve the bagels hot, sell them whole and let the customer do the rest.

Its trademarked Grip, Rip and Dip® approach is as uncomplicated as it sounds. Take a freshly baked bagel, tear off a piece and plunge it into a generously flavored schmear. There are no knives required, no carefully constructed sandwiches and certainly no need to pretend that eating a bagel should be an exercise in restraint.

It’s a clever reinvention of a New York ritual, turning something traditionally eaten on the run into an experience that’s meant to be shared, sampled and savored. The emphasis is on the bagel itself, with its crisp exterior and warm, chewy interior, rather than the mountain of ingredients that so often threatens to overwhelm it.

Naturally, the Times Square location isn’t arriving quietly. PopUp is marking its Broadway-area debut with a pair of flavors that could hardly be more New York if they arrived in a yellow taxi.

First comes the New York Cheesecake Strawberry Schmear, a playful tribute to one of the city’s most enduring desserts. The combination brings the richness of cheesecake and the sweetness of strawberries into PopUp’s signature dipping experience. It’s breakfast flirting rather shamelessly with dessert, and frankly, we see no reason to object.

Then there’s a collaboration that should get the attention of even the most opinionated deli traditionalists. PopUp has joined forces with the legendary Katz’s Delicatessen to introduce Everything but the Pastrami Butter, a distinctly New York creation that brings together two institutions with very different approaches to the city’s culinary traditions.

Katz’s, of course, is practically synonymous with the oversized pastrami sandwich, a Lower East Side institution whose reputation has endured for generations. PopUp, meanwhile, has built its following by rejecting the sandwich altogether. Bringing the two together is a delicious bit of culinary irony, and one that feels particularly appropriate for a city where tradition and reinvention are constantly competing for the last word.

For purists, the regular menu remains reassuringly familiar. Plain, Everything, Poppy, Salt and Sesame bagels provide the foundation, while the schmear selection includes Plain and Scallion Cream Cheese, Salted Butter and Brown Sugar Cinnamon Butter. The choices may sound straightforward, but simplicity is the entire point. When the bagel is good enough, it doesn’t need a supporting cast of fifteen ingredients.

Because this is Times Square, where even breakfast occasionally deserves its own opening-night celebration, PopUp is planning something considerably more festive than simply unlocking the doors.

The October 16 grand opening will feature a live DJ, exclusive New York City merchandise for the first customers in line and complimentary beverages courtesy of Saint James, La Colombe and Natalie’s. Early arrivals will have the advantage, although given the brand’s enthusiastic following, a line seems almost inevitable.

The new shop will also offer something particularly welcome in a neighborhood whose schedule rarely resembles the traditional nine-to-five workday. Open daily from 7 a.m. until 9 p.m., the Times Square location will have the latest closing time of any PopUp Bagels shop in New York City.

That makes it an appealing prospect not only for commuters and breakfast enthusiasts, but also for the theatre crowd. A warm bagel and an inventive schmear before an evening performance, or a quick bite after a matinee, may prove an attractive alternative to the neighborhood’s more predictable dining options.

There is something wonderfully New York about the whole enterprise. PopUp Bagels isn’t trying to replace the city’s beloved bagel institutions. It’s challenging the assumption that there is only one correct way to enjoy a food that New Yorkers have spent generations perfecting.

And while the company may have eliminated the traditional sandwich, it certainly hasn’t eliminated personality. Between its Katz’s collaboration, cheesecake-inspired schmear and celebratory opening, PopUp seems to understand that in Times Square, a little showmanship is practically mandatory.

The real test, naturally, will be in the bagel itself. New Yorkers will forgive a great deal of theatricality, but never a mediocre bagel.

PopUp Bagels opens its Times Square location on Friday, October 16, at 7 a.m., with daily hours from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. For additional information, visit popupbagels.com.

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Events

Dun Dun… Dinner Is Served: Law & Order Brings Its Diner Back to New York

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There may be no television sound more instantly recognizable than dun dun. Now, for two days in October, it could also mean lunch.

NBC’s Law & Order “Dun Dun Diner” is returning to New York City on Friday, October 9 and Saturday, October 10, transforming Bill’s Bar & Burger at Rockefeller Center into an immersive celebration of one of television’s most enduring—and most thoroughly New York—franchises.

Running from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. both days, the pop-up combines themed food, interactive experiences, photo opportunities and exclusive merchandise with something Law & Order has always understood particularly well: New York itself.

This time, some serious New York food royalty is joining the investigation. Ess-a-Bagel, Katz’s Delicatessen, Magnolia Bakery and Serendipity3 are collaborating on a specially curated menu for the event. NBC hasn’t yet revealed every dish, which means the evidence remains tantalizingly incomplete, but the four institutions bring together some of the city’s most recognizable bagels, deli fare and desserts under one very familiar television umbrella.

Fans have two ways to enter the scene. For $30, the Booth Service Dining Experience offers a seated meal inside the Dun Dun Diner, including the guest’s choice of one featured collaborative dish, dessert, Law & Order-branded merchandise and interactive touches inspired by the series. For those more interested in investigating than eating, the free Grab & Go Experience includes merchandise giveaways and a themed photo opportunity. Both experiences require reservations.

Reservations opened September 18 on a first-come, first-served basis, so anyone planning to report for duty should probably move faster than Detective Benson arriving at a crime scene.

The timing couldn’t be better. The Dun Dun Diner opens one day after the new seasons of Law & Order and Law & Order: Special Victims Unit premiere Thursday, October 8 on NBC, with episodes streaming the following day on Peacock. This year’s event also falls during NBC’s centennial celebration, marking 100 years of the network’s television history.

The pop-up itself has become something of a tradition. Last year’s Dun Dun Diner also descended upon Rockefeller Center, complete with memorabilia, themed experiences and plenty of opportunities for fans to insert themselves into the Law & Order universe. For 2026, the diner moves into Bill’s Bar & Burger and expands the culinary component with its lineup of distinctly New York collaborators.

Because two days hardly seems sufficient to interrogate a pastrami sandwich, select dishes from the collaborations will continue at participating partner restaurants on October 12 and 13. Which dishes and locations will participate have yet to be announced.

There is something wonderfully appropriate about Law & Order turning itself into a New York diner. For decades, the city hasn’t merely served as the backdrop for the franchise; it has been one of its principal characters. Courthouses, precincts, sidewalks, brownstones, restaurants and recognizable corners of Manhattan have given the shows a sense of place that no soundstage could quite duplicate.

Now New Yorkers get to step inside that world—with considerably less danger and considerably more cheesecake.

The Law & Order Dun Dun Diner takes over Bill’s Bar & Burger at 16 West 51st Street on October 9 and 10 from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Reservations are available through the Dun Dun Diner reservation page.

In the culinary justice system, the people are represented by two separate but equally important groups: those who secure reservations—and those who wish they had.

Dun dun.

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Broadway

Taste of Times Square Serves Up the Neighborhood — With a Sobering Reminder Just One Block Away

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Times Square smelled considerably better than usual Wednesday afternoon as Taste of Times Square returned September 9, turning Broadway and Restaurant Row into one enormous outdoor dining room. More than 30 neighborhood restaurants participated in the annual Times Square Alliance food and music festival, which stretched along 46th Street from Seventh to Ninth Avenues and across the Broadway plazas between 45th and 47th Streets.


For four hours, the neighborhood became a tasting menu of itself. Italian, Mexican, Caribbean, Cuban, Indian and classic American dishes appeared within steps of one another, with longtime Theatre District institutions joining newer arrivals and giving New Yorkers and visitors the chance to graze their way through the neighborhood without committing to a full dinner. Most tastes were priced at $5, with several larger offerings at $10.

Among the participating favorites were Bond 45 NY, Brooklyn Chop House, Ellen’s Stardust Diner, Hard Rock Cafe, Carmine’s, Becco, Havana Central, Le Rivage, Junior’s, Serendipity 3, Toloache, Tony’s Di Napoli and Virgil’s Real Barbecue. It was a rather wonderful reminder of something those of us who actually live and work here already know: Times Square may be famous for its lights and Broadway theatres, but there is an extraordinary amount of food tucked into these blocks.

Toffee Sticky Pudding from The Long Room

We started with dessert—or at least made very certain we didn’t miss it. The Toffee Sticky Pudding from The Long Room proved one of our happiest discoveries of the day. Sweets were surprisingly scarce, particularly compared with the number of savory offerings, making that pudding even more welcome. Between it, Serendipity 3’s Frozen Hot Chocolate and Junior’s cheesecake, the neighborhood’s sweet tooth was represented, but only just.

Toloache’s pork taco

Then came Toloache. Their pork taco was delicious enough to accomplish exactly what an event like Taste of Times Square is supposed to accomplish: it made us want to go back and review the restaurant properly. A few bites can be a far more persuasive advertisement than any press release.

Palermo Argentinian Bistro Steak and cheese bread

We already knew what Palermo Argentinian Bistro could do, having previously reviewed and loved the restaurant, but its steak and cheese bread provided a useful reminder. The steak was quite simply melt-in-your-mouth tender. There is also another Mexican restaurant, Rosa Mexican, preparing to enter the neighborhood, and we are more than ready to see what it brings to the increasingly interesting Theatre District dining scene.


Food, however, was only half the atmosphere. Music spilled through the plazas, including TSQ LIVE + MTA Music performer Bella Breen at Broadway and 47th Street, while the Broadway Dreams Foundation and Ellen’s Stardust Diner’s Stardusters were among the scheduled performers farther downtown. Street musicians filled in the spaces between, and at one point models were being filmed in the middle of it all. It was Times Square doing what Times Square does best: food, theatre, fashion, music and complete visual chaos somehow occupying the same few blocks without asking one another’s permission.

Catherine Russell

One of our favorite encounters was with Catherine Russell, who has spent nearly four decades playing Margaret Thorne Brent in the Off-Broadway thriller Perfect Crime. Russell isn’t simply part of Theatre District history; she is one of those people who actually makes the neighborhood feel like a neighborhood. She owns The Theater Center and Patzeria Perfect Pizza, and there she was Wednesday, not posing beside the booth but serving pasta to the people who stopped by.

That accessibility is part of what made Taste of Times Square work. For one afternoon, the barrier between restaurant and customer, performer and audience, Broadway and sidewalk largely disappeared. Restaurant owners and workers served food in the street while musicians performed a few feet away and thousands of people wandered from table to table deciding what smelled too good to pass up.

New York has an unnerving ability to place celebration and violence almost side by side.

Just a block from Restaurant Row, two people were stabbed Wednesday afternoon inside a West 47th Street building. Early reports differed on the precise address, ages and conditions of the victims, but police confirmed that a man and woman suffered stab wounds in the incident at approximately 2:45 p.m. Later reporting said both victims had been taken to Mount Sinai West and were in stable condition, while police were searching for a suspect. Contrary to some initial information circulating Wednesday, the latest reporting I found does not confirm that the male victim died or that a person of interest was in custody.

The contrast was impossible to ignore. A block away, people were eating tacos, listening to music and celebrating the restaurants that make Hell’s Kitchen and Times Square feel like home. Nearby, police were investigating a bloody act of violence.

That, too, is New York: glorious and maddening, communal and frightening, sometimes within a single city block.

For most of Wednesday, though, Taste of Times Square offered the version of the neighborhood worth fighting to preserve. Restaurants opened themselves to strangers, performers turned sidewalks into stages, Catherine Russell handed out pizza, and thousands of people ate their way through a community that is far richer and more local than the flashing billboards sometimes allow the rest of the world to see.

Somewhere in all of that, we discovered a sticky toffee pudding worth going back for.

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