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Food and Drink

The Oval: Italian Pasta Never Looked So Good

The Oval: Italian Pasta Never Looked So Good
Conceptualized by Giuseppe Di Martino, third generation Owner of renowned Pastificio Di Martino, The Oval is nestled in the well-designed space within La Devozione at Chelsea Market. The chef’s tasting experience will take diners on a culinary journey for the best use of the Di Martino’s varied pasta shapes with imported and local seasonal ingredients. Each dish in the seven-course pasta tasting menu is based on classic Italian recipes, reimagined by Giuseppe and Executive Chef Alessio Rossettiin modern and experimental ways.
The Oval is like no other experience in New York. Every aspect of each course is rooted in specificity beginning with the uniqueness of the dry pasta shapes paired with specific ingredients and flavor notes. The dishes are presented with custom-made tableware and flatware, and Zalto glassware, all designed to augment the dining experience. As each dish is prepared in its own pan, The Oval becomes a show piece, as the chef has 750 pans at his disposal, creating intricate pasta dishes a la minute in front of the customer. The courses are paced in such a way that the chef can seamlessly serve up to fifteen diners at once, including parties with different start times. As the perfect pasta is served al dente, Giuseppe has devised a serving method at The Oval to allow diners to indulge in the pasta at its peak texture, between 10 and 40-seconds after the dish is finished.
The Oval is manned by Executive Chef Alessio Rossetti, who hails from Caserta, Italy and trained at IPSSAR Cassino in Lazio. He began his career at the 5-Star Luxury Hotel Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera, as Chef de Cuisine before arriving in New York in 2014, serving as Sous Chef at Tony May’s SD26 and Black Barn as Executive Sous Chef before leading The Oval.
Rossetti’s spring menu is focused on acidity and bitterness, with ingredients sourced from the top regions of production in Italy at the height of their seasonality, like bergamot andchili peppers from Calabria, and tomatoes from a region of Campania known as Quisisana.
The menu begins with an amuse bouche, a deconstructed dry Spaghetti Aglio Olio with Chili, a fried wafer made with pureed pasta mixed with garlic, oil and chili pepper.The first course, Spaghettini al Limone is cooked in lemon water that has been prepared over two days to allow the pasta to absorb the citrus flavors of spring, topped with Provolone del Monaco to cut the acidity, and finished with lemon zest. The experience begins with a thin pasta as the quick prep time for the dish allows the rest of the menu to follow an impeccable pace and ensure they are served al dente. The next course is Pacchero Calabria, paccheri, a pasta shaped in a large tube, cooked in water and fish broth, served over bergamot sauce cut with orange juice and topped with Smoked Swordfish, carpaccio, Calabrian chilli, fennel salad, fennel beard, fennel pollen and Maldon salt; followed by the Marco Polo, linguine cooked in water and oolong black tea with garlic milk foam whisked in and topped with Ossetra Caviar; Sogno Rosa, eliche giganti a spiral shaped pasta similar to tortiglioni cooked in salted water then creamed in an anchovy base served in a wine glass with beetroot cream, whipped goat cheese, toasted almonds, and capers. The wine glass is then swirled tableside by the server transforming the flavors and imbuing the dish with a deep rose pink color; Candele pancia di maiale e carciofi, a traditional long, tubular shaped pasta from Southern Italy that resembles candles and is broken rather than cut in a choice of pork belly or mushroom Ragu; Seafood, or Seafood Medley; with artichoke sauce, artichoke oil, and squid ink; ending the savory courses with La Devozione, the signature dish of perfect spaghetti al pomodoro. The penultimate pasta course was designed by Giuseppe, as he and “Gambero Rosso” founder and critic Stefano Bonilli travelled Italy using spaghetti al pomodoro as the final test when deciding on how to grade a chef. The simplicity of the dish does not leave any room for error, and it is prepared perfectly each time at The Oval as a testament to Chef Alessio’s ability. The dish takes just 8 minutes to prepare; the pasta is boiled in water for four minutes, then cooked in a special tomato sauce from the Sorrento Coast and served with a golden fork on a long, unique oblong-shaped plate designed exclusively for the dish. The tasting menu ends with a Tartelletta salsa ai Lamponi e Lemon Curd, short crust pastry base filled with a lemon curd, covered with raspberries, drizzled in a raspberry sauce and garnished with small meringues.
To perfect the service, Giuseppe has enlisted a trio of Eleven Madison Park alumniincluding General Manager/Wine Director Max Tierno, who began his career in wine working under Laura Fiorvanti (Corkbuzz) for five years before moving on to the Eleven Madison Park Summer House in the Hamptons and Winter House in Aspen Colorado before joining the team at the three-Michelin-Starred Flatironlocation where he worked with the Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning wine program, gaining experience serving the most prestigious wines in the world; Sommelier Janelle Jirau graduated from The Culinary Institute of America in 2017, and went on to work at The Dutch and STARR Restaurants before arriving at La Devozione; and Bar Director Cristhian Rodriguez who embarked on a career working behind the bar at The NoMad Hotel, where he became immersed in the methodology of creating and serving the perfect cocktail before transferring to Eleven Madison Park.
Wine Program: At La Devozione, General manager/Wine Director Max Tiernohas curated a wine list focused on France and Italy, from a blend of classic producers in such regions as Champagne, Burgundy, and Piedmont. The program features new up and coming producers from developing wine regions like Campania, Calabria, and Sicily to compliment the cuisine.
Bar Program: Rodriguez designed the bar program on four pillars: Italian elements, relating the cocktails to Italian flavors and culture, reimagining them through a New York lens, while respecting the classics, including Culinary aspects in the making of each cocktail, and personal stories, as the cocktails are not only designed to express a story but to allow guests to tell theirs and create a memory.
Highlights from the cocktail menu include the Di Martini, a dry Martini made with Marconi 42 gin, dry and blanc vermouths, one infused with sun-dried tomatoes, and Fino sherry presented in a separate glass with pickled green strawberry and cherry tomatoes compressed in tomato water; Aceto Pazzo, Old Forester 100 Bourbon, Nonino Amaro, lemon, roasted pineapple shrub and toasted coconut; and Vetiver Negroni, a reference to the perfume by Le Labo with a scent that evokes reverence, crafted with Bootyard Gin, Campari, Alpine Amaro Braulio, our Bitter Bambino house vermouth, and vetiver roots.
The Bar Program also showcases a number of Zero ABV Cocktails like Commedia al Pomodoro, tomato water, basil, and blood orange soda; Frutta Frizzante, roasted pineapple shrub, coconut, and sparkling water; Rose & Cardamom, a non-alcoholic take on Pinot Noir made with roses, hibiscus, cardamom, and cacao.
The Oval serves a four-course tasting menu priced at $95 for lunch and seven-course menu priced at $165 for dinner. Diners have the option to add a wine pairing for an additional $95. Cocktail pairings are also available.
Seatings are by reservation only and are available through Resy.
LOCATION: Inside Chelsea Market: 75 9th Avenue, New York, NY 10011
Newly Launched Exclusive 16th Street Entrance: 428 West 16th Street
WEBSITE: ladevozionenyc.com
PHONE: (646) 720-0215
INSTAGRAM: @ladevozione_nyc
HOURS: Wednesday – Sunday 12pm-3pm; 5:30pm-10pm
SEATING CAPACITY: 30

Food and Drink

Suzanna, co-owns and publishes the newspaper Times Square Chronicles or T2C. At one point a working actress, she has performed in numerous productions in film, TV, cabaret, opera and theatre. She has performed at The New Orleans Jazz festival, The United Nations and Carnegie Hall. She has a screenplay and a TV show in the works, which she developed with her mentor and friend the late Arthur Herzog. She is a proud member of the Drama Desk and the Outer Critics Circle and was a nominator. Email: suzanna@t2conline.com

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